DIY Umbrella Stand Side Table for the Patio

An umbrella base is ugly, it's a toe-stubber, and it takes up the floor space where a drink table should go. A box that sits over the base fixes all three. This plan also covers repurposing an old umbrella stand as a table, and the planter version for people who'd rather see flowers than a stand.

Before you build: pole size and base weight

The table doesn't hold the umbrella up; the base does. So get the base right first.

• Pole diameter: 1.5 in is the common market-umbrella size; some umbrellas use poles of about 1.9 in. Many bases take both, such as Blue Wave's fillable base (1.5-1.9 in).
• Free-standing needs more weight. Treasure Garden sells a 30 lb add-on weight for some bases, recommended for free-standing use, and marks some base stems as under-table only. Your umbrella's manual has the number that matters.
• Water-filled bases are light. Blue Wave's fillable base weighs 37.5 lb filled and is rated for umbrellas 7.5 ft or smaller. Outsunny's fillable stand reaches about 48 lb with water or 64 lb with sand.
• Cantilevers are out. They have their own cross base and don't go through a table.

Measure your base before you cut: the widest diameter, and the height from the ground to the top of its stem or collar. The table box must clear both, and the umbrella's crank and tilt button must still sit above the 23 in tabletop once the pole is in the base.

Materials and cut list

Box: 23 x 23 in outside, 22 in tall sides, four 1x6 rows per side. Inside clearance is about 21.5 in, enough for most round bases up to about 21 in across (round bases fit into the corners past the posts). Scale the box if yours is larger.

Lumber prices vary a lot by region; treat these as rough. Tools: saw, drill/driver, 2 in hole saw or jigsaw, clamps, sandpaper, square.

How to build the umbrella stand side table

1. Cut and sand Cut all parts and sand the edges. Cedar splits near the ends, so pre-drill every screw.
2. Build two faces Lay two corner posts 23 in apart (outside to outside). Screw four 23 in slats across them, starting flush with the top of the posts and butting the rows together (four 5½ in boards make the 22 in height). Repeat for the opposite face.
3. Join the box Stand both faces up and screw the 21½ in side slats between them into the posts. Check that the box is square by measuring the diagonals.
4. Lay out the top Line up the four 24 in top boards edge to edge, with a ¼ in gap between each. The seam between boards two and three is the split line.
5. Cut the umbrella hole Clamp the two middle boards tight together and drill a 2 in hole centered on their seam with a hole saw (or mark a 2 in circle and cut it with a jigsaw). Each board now has a half-circle notch.
6. Cleat the halves Join boards one and two with two cleats underneath, and boards three and four with the other two. Set the cleats so they drop just inside the box walls; that locates each half and stops it sliding.
7. Finish Sand the hole smooth, round the top edges, and apply an exterior finish if you want to keep the cedar's color; left bare, cedar weathers to silver-gray.
8. Install Set the box over the base, put the umbrella pole in the base, then drop the two top halves in around the pole. Fit a ring or wedge in the hole for a snug fit and no rattling.

Repurposing an old umbrella stand as a side table

If you have a spare cast-iron or concrete base with no umbrella, it makes a sturdy pedestal for a small round top:

1. Cut a pedestal pipe Use a length of 1.5 in wood dowel or metal pipe that fits the base socket snugly, cut to about 20-22 in above the base.
2. Make the top An 18-20 in round of exterior plywood or glued cedar boards. Screw a pipe flange (or a wood block drilled to fit the dowel) to its center.
3. Assemble and test Tighten the base's knob on the pipe, set the top on and press on its edge. If it tips, the top is too wide for the base; go smaller.

Umbrella table flower planter

A big planter can stand in for the side table, or sit beside it, and still hold the umbrella.

1. Choose the pot A sturdy planter at least 16-20 in across with drainage holes.
2. Set a sleeve Stand a piece of 2 in PVC pipe upright in a 5-gallon bucket, plumb it, and fill the bucket with concrete. Drill a few drain holes in the bucket rim area first so water can escape.
3. Plant around it Put the cured bucket in the center of the planter, fill around it with potting mix and plant low, trailing flowers or herbs that won't tangle the umbrella when it closes.
4. Check the weight The finished planter has to meet your umbrella's minimum base weight. If in doubt, keep a proper base inside and use the planter as a cover.

Two more planter variations: add a 6 in deep window box to one face of the side table, or use the box itself as a planter by setting a tray of pots on a shelf above the base. Watering inside the box will rust a steel base, so keep plants in drained pots.

Growing more than a few patio pots? A lean-to greenhouse fits against the same house wall, and greenhouse shelving uses the same cedar-and-screws skills as this build. For more weekend builds, see our garden projects, including the shower caddy vertical planter.

Got a sunny patio corner left over? A portable greenhouse can sit on pavers for the season, and our small greenhouse kits guide covers permanent options that fit next to a patio. For the full comparison, see the best greenhouse kits by size, budget and climate.